Maintenance & Repairs

How to Jump-Start Your Car

November 26, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

You just finished with your shopping and have returned to your car only to discover that the ignition does not turn over. Upon further inspection, you have discovered that the battery has died and you are stranded.

But not all is lost — with jumper cables at the ready and with the help of another motorist, you should be able to revive the battery and get your car started by following several important steps carefully.

Jump starting a car means securing the positive and negative connections first.

1. Assemble Your Tools

The only tool you will need to jump-start a car is a set of jumper cables. A rag or a wire brush can come in handy for wiping away battery corrosion that may have built up on one or more of the terminals.

2. Pull the Cars Close

Attempt to pull the working car as close to the non-working vehicle as possible. Do not allow them to touch as that vehicle-to-vehicle connection will cause a short.

Turn the working car’s engine off, then raise and secure each car’s hood.

3. Connect the Cable Leads

Begin by connecting the positive cable lead to the positive terminal of the good battery, before connecting the negative cable lead to the negative terminal on that same battery.

Take the other end of the jumper cable to the non-working car and attach the negative cable lead to a solid metal surface such as its engine.

Connect the positive cable lead to the battery’s positive terminal. Ensure that each connection is firm and secure.

4. Start Your Engines

Start the engine in the working car first. Permit the car to run at least one minute to allow the battery to fully charge. Next, start the engine in the second car.

If the engine turns over, your battery is salvageable. If not, you can attempt to start the car two more times. If it fails to turn over, then likely you’ll need to replace a dead battery. However, if the battery is new, then the alternator is the culprit and will need to be replaced, not the battery.

5. Disconnect the Cable

Keep the cars connected for one or two minutes to allow the revived battery to build up a charge. Then, disconnect the black leads from each battery first, followed by the red leads. Store your jumper cables as before.

Car Battery Diagnosis

As soon as you can, have your battery diagnosed by your mechanic or service center to determine whether it should be replaced or whether some other electrical problem is present. Always know your battery’s expected lifespan and plan to have it replaced before then.

Photo courtesy of Pixabay.

Replacement Tires: Where to Buy Them

June 16, 2019 by admin 6 Comments

When it comes time to replacing tires, you have several places to consider for new ones. Ideally, you’ll swap out the original employment manufacturer (OEM) with the same set, but keep in mind that you have choices, depending on the brand, tire tread, and warranty miles. The following are five places to consider when shopping for new tires.

1. Automotive Dealership

Purchasing tires from a new car dealership is typically the most expensive option. When you go to the dealership you can get high-quality OEM tires. Further, going to the dealership affords flexibility when it comes to scheduling your service.

For instance, there are usually multiple tire technicians working during the day and some dealerships keep their service department open well into the evening. Additionally, most dealerships provide a shuttle service so that you can get to work while your car is being maintained. Moreover, some dealers provide loaner cars you can use while your car is out of commission. However, these special benefits come with a price. In some cases, you can expect to pay significantly more than at other tire retailers.

2. National Tire Chain Retailer

Most cities have numerous national tire chains. When visiting a shop, the service manager will obtain your information. Next, this individual will supply you with a few tire choices. Importantly, they will work within your budget.

Some national tire chains have branded credit cards that you can apply for on the spot. You can then use the card to pay for the work, including the tires, taxes, installation costs, and warranty. You may even find a discount by using this card and in some cases receive rewards each time you use it.

In most cases, you will wait to have your tires installed but generally, you can make an appointment for a time that fits your schedule.

When it comes to replacing tires, the original equipment manufacturer’s (OEM)
choice is always a safe bet. Pictured: 2019 Chevrolet Equinox.

3. Locally-Owned Tire Shop

Locally owned tire shops probably won’t have instant credit available. However, they usually accept major credit cards. A local tire shop may have a supply of used tires on hand for purchase. Used tires usually cost much less than new tires.

If financial issues are a concern, you should let them know — a local shop may be willing to work with you, especially if you’re a regular customer. A local shop can order new tires if they don’t have your size tire in stock. You will need to wait for your tires to be installed.

4. Discount Tire Retailer

If you concerned about the cost of new tires, you can use a discount tire retailer. In many cases, you’ll find deep discounts from wholesale distributors. If you have one in your area you, then stop by to learn if the business has your tire size and which brand choices are available.

Typically, you can purchase tires and bring them to a garage to have them mounted and balanced for a separate fee. If they have a contract with a local tire store, they may offer you a discount to take the tires there.

Retread tires were once an option for consumers looking for low-cost replacement tires. As discount chains proliferated, the practice eventually faded. This shop in West Virginia once supplied retread tires. Photo credit: West Virginia Collection within the Carol M. Highsmith Archive,
Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division.

5. Online Tire Retailer

You can also purchase tires from a wholesale distributor online with the tires shipped directly to your home. You’ll need to find a local garage to have them installed.

This option has become increasingly popular as shipment costs are a reasonable expense. Be certain you understand the retailer’s return policy before you make a purchase.

Let’s Make a Deal

Finding places to purchase tires gives you much to consider. That said, once you decide on a retail option you prefer, you’ll be glad you shopped around. Keep in mind that installation costs, taxes, and an extended warranty will cost you extra.

See Also — Tire Sidewall Code Deciphering 101

Temporary Repair Steps and Tips for Windshields

June 1, 2019 by admin 4 Comments

Who knew that one tiny pebble could cause so much damage? A small chip can soon expand, with a web-like crack slowly crawling across your windshield. Put off this repair long enough and your windshield may suddenly break, showering your interior with glass. You may be able to handle a temporary repair yourself, provided you take the following steps.

If you don’t take care of a small crack immediately, your entire windshield can break,
requiring immediate replacement.

1. Measure the Damage

If the damage to your windshield measures one inch or less, then proceed to the next step. If it is larger than one inch, then do not read on as you will need to have your windshield repair handled by a professional.

2. Shop for a Windshield Repair Kit

Several manufacturers offer windshield repair kits, providing temporary solutions for your minor windshield repair. Blue-Star, Permatex, 3M Auto, Loctite and Pitstop offer kits, each retailing for less than $20. We’ll use the 3M Auto kit as an example for making this particular repair.

3. Consider Temperature and Conditions

Plan your windshield repair for a warm, moisture-free day when temperatures are at least 60 degrees and no more than 90 degrees. Ideally, you will accomplish this repair in a climate-controlled garage where outside temperature and direct sunlight are not factors.

4. Review and Prepare

Read the instructions that come with your safety kit carefully before going through each step. Avoid contact with chemicals by wearing gloves and put on safety goggles when handling this repair project.

5. Assemble the Injection Tool

Your windshield repair kit will come with a bridge assembly, a resin chamber assembly and an injector assembly, in addition to an alcohol wipe, a stick pin, one eye dropper, a scraping blade and a tiny sheet of clear plastic film. Assemble the injection tool with the parts provided to make this tool.

6. Clean and Repair

Spray the windshield area surrounding the damage with glass cleaner. Wipe clean with a paper towel. Take the stick pin and clean out the affected area, removing loose pieces of glass. Wipe the damaged area with the included alcohol wipe.

7. Center the Injector Tool

Place the injector tool over the damaged area, screwing in the injection nozzle directly over the chip. If you have difficulty centering the tool, tape a mirror to the inside of the windshield for improved visibility. Press down on the assembly to allow the suction cups to adhere to the glass.

8. Fill the Resin Chamber

Take the eyedropper and fill it halfway with the provided glass repair resin. Screw the upper portion of the injector tool into the resin chamber. The resin will begin to fill the damaged area as you screw it in place.

9. Observe and Repeat, if Necessary

From the underside of the windshield (inside of your car) ensure that the affected area has been filled with resin. If not, adjust the assembly and repeat the previous step. Once you are satisfied that the job has been accomplished, then add a drop of resin and place the clear plastic film over the treated area.

10. Remove and Cure

Remove the bridge assembly from the windshield and place your car outside in direct sunlight. Allow the resin to cure for 30 minutes before cleaning up.

11. Clean and Observe

Once cured, scrape around the edge of the treated area with the scraping blade to remove excess resin. Remove the plastic film. Wipe down your entire windshield with glass cleaner and a towel. Observe that the damage has been repaired.

Temporary Repair Ahead of a Permanent Solution

A temporary windshield repair is just that: a chance for you to put off a more expensive car repair until you have the money to pay for one. If you have comprehensive auto insurance coverage, your windshield repair may be covered. However, a deductible may still apply. Contact your auto insurer to learn what your share of repair costs will be.

How to Safely Remove Car Battery Corrosion

July 23, 2018 by admin 2 Comments

Without proper attention, your car’s battery can corrode, possibly leaving you without a working car. Corrosion can drain power out of a battery and shorten its life. Battery corrosion is typically apparent at the terminals, a problem that can be resolved by careful cleaning.

battery terminal corrosion — How to remove corrosion from a car battery.

1. Assemble Your Tools and Supplies

Gather the essential tools and supplies required to tackle this job. You will need to put on a pair of safety glasses and work gloves. Avoid wearing your good clothes as you will come in contact with grease and dirt. You will need a stiff wire brush, a cup of lukewarm or cold water, a box of baking soda, a teaspoon and rags. An old toothbrush, pliers, a wrench and petroleum jelly round out your tools and supplies.

2. Disconnect the Battery

Park your car outside, preferably in your driveway or in the street. Lift and secure the car’s hood, then locate the battery. In some vehicles, the battery can be found underneath the rear passenger seat or in the trunk. Take the wrench and pliers to the black (negative) connection or post and loosen same. Repeat this process with the red (positive) connection. Place your tools away from the battery cables to avoid contact resulting in an electrical shock.

3. Remove Car Battery Corrosion

Take your teaspoon and fill it with baking soda. Combine this powder with your cup of water and stir. Gradually pour approximately half the solution over each battery post, then place this mixture to the side. Take your wire brush or old toothbrush and brush off the remaining corrosion. You can dip the brush into the mixture or pour the remaining amount over the terminals as needed. For tough cases allow this solution to penetrate for at least five minutes. Continue brushing until all corrosion has been removed.

4. Preparation and Clean Up

Dry off the battery, wiping it down with a clean rag. Wipe down the battery cables. Discard your rag. Apply petroleum directly to each battery post liberally. Reconnect the battery cables beginning with the positive connection followed by the negative connection. Tighten each connection with your pliers or wrench. Remove all tools and supplies, close the hood and start your car to ensure that it will run. You might also consider moving the car away from the work area and bringing out the garden hose to wash away the corrosive residue left on the ground.

Getting the Job Done

Battery corrosion removal and care can be successfully handled within 15 to 20 minutes. Make this an annual task and you will avoid potential problems that can leave you stranded or shorten your battery’s useful life.

See Also — Care Tips for Your New Vehicle

Photo courtesy of Mark Buckawicki, The Public Domain Project

Check Engine Light On: How to Diagnose (OBD-II)

December 26, 2017 by admin 1 Comment

OBD-II device: your solution for what ails your car.

All cars built since 1996 are equipped with an industry-standard on-board diagnostic system. That system is always at work in the background, but will immediately alert you to a potential problem by turning on the check engine light and keeping it on until your car is serviced. There is no need to panic: as long as the light is stable and not flashing, you can perform a diagnosis yourself.

Get a Diagnostic Device

Purchase a diagnostic device. The current diagnostic system, also known as OBD-II, provides easy readout information to help you determine what is wrong with your car. Handheld diagnostic devices cost about $80 — what you would pay a mechanic for a diagnosis — and are available through your auto parts store. Choose one that is not specific to a vehicle brand, a device that can read and interpret data from any modern vehicle. See: What Does the Check-Engine Light Mean?

Locate Your Car’s OBD-II Port

That port is usually located under the lower dashboard on the driver’s side. Your owner’s manual will also list its location.

Connect to the OBD-II Port

Attach the cable portion (male) of the reader to the OBD-II (female) port. Press the on button to activate the reader and to obtain a read out. See: CNET: A Brief Intro to OBD-II technology

Interpret the Code

The screen of the reader will list a code, typically a letter followed by four numbers. For example, P0549. Certain code readers explain what the problem is by listing that information along with the code. Other readers provide a list of codes in a book that is included with the code reader. If the code is not listed in the book, it might be specific to your make only. Contact your vehicle’s service department for a diagnosis.

Reset the System

If the code suggests a problem that you can handle yourself such as a loose sensor, you can make the repair and attempt to clear the code from the OBD-II system. Your code reader may also come equipped with a reset button that will clear the code. If no reset button is available you can remove and reinstall the battery terminal in the reader. Then, restart your car and observe whether the code has cleared. If it has, then you have avoided a shop visit. If it hasn’t cleared, then contact your mechanic.

An OBD-II reader can pay for itself after just one use. You may prefer to see your mechanic anyway with the information obtained at least alerting you to the repair that must be made. Never ignore a check engine on light as whatever problem you have can worsen and cost you more money in repairs.

Wikimedia file photo credit — Ahsanriaz6157 Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Tire Safety: What You Must Know

November 24, 2017 by admin 3 Comments

Indisputably, you have a lot riding on your tires. Indeed, many of today’s vehicles weigh at least two tons with some larger trucks and SUVs tipping the scales above three tons. With all that weight riding on rubber you might think tire safety would be foremost on every driver’s mind. Yet, tire management is often neglected as underinflated or worn out tires present a real and present hazard, areas of automotive safety you must not ignore.

Tire Safety 101

Your vehicle’s tires affect not just handling and braking, but also impact fuel economy. Consequently, the tires outfitted on your new car have been carefully chosen by the original equipment manufacturer.

Tire warranties, however, are backed by the tire manufacturer, not the automaker. A copy of your tire warranty is typically bundled with your other important documents and usually reside in your glove box or other storage compartment.

Adequate Tire Inflation

Bridgestone DriveGuard tire safety — All tires, including this Bridgestone DriveGuard product, should be checked monthly for proper inflation.

If you want to ensure long tire life, adequate handling and safe braking, your tires should stay inflated in accordance with the car manufacturer’s guidelines. In particular, that information is usually found on a placard affixed to the inside jamb of the driver’s door. In some vehicles the placard or sticker is located on the inside cover of the glove box.

Auto Trends reached out to Will Robbins, Product Manager for Bridgestone Americas Tire Operations, for seasonal tips about tire care, especially the impact extreme temperatures can have.

Explained Robbins, “Proper tire pressure is critical to tire safety. Drivers should check their tire inflation pressure at least once each month, and that becomes even more critical during the cold, winter season. In general, tires lose one psi (pound per square inch) of pressure for every 10-degree Fahrenheit drop in ambient temperature. The opposite is true for warm weather conditions, with tire inflation pressure increasing one psi for every 10-degree Fahrenheit increase in ambient temperature.”

Thus, a sudden drop in temperature overnight can leave your tires underinflated. As a result, control can become compromised, especially when you need it most as in when driving on snow and ice.

Load Limits and Speed Ratings

Two additional factors also affect tire safety: load limits and speed. Likewise, every tire has its limitations. Specifically, the amount of weight you carry in the car (payload) in addition to the vehicle’s weight itself (gross vehicle weight) will influence tire safety for better or for worse.

There are three ways you can determine load limits.

First, return to the placard that lists PSI information. You may see a statement such as, “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 400kg or 882 pounds.”

Second, look on the tire sidewall itself, information found nearest the wheel. This isn’t easy to spot as the notation surrounding the wheel is stamped in small letters. Typically, you’ll find a statement such as “maximum load carrying capacity at maximum cold inflation pressure (single and dual load).”

Third, open your owner’s manual. If all else fails, turn to the section of the owner’s manual describing tire information.

You may not own the tools required to gauge your vehicle’s weight and carrying capacity (such as a scale), but through keen observation, you should see if your car is sinking under a heavy load. If it is, you must remove excess weight.

Tires are also safety rated for speed. Most drivers adhere to road speed limits, but if you like to take your car to the track, you should understand that the letter ratings on the sidewall represent its speed ratings. Those ratings range from “L” for 75 mph to “(Y)” for speeds above 186 mph.

Tire Rotation and Balancing

Tire rotation is important for two related reasons:

1), for the even distribution of tread wear, and

2), for safe handling.

Your owner’s manual will spell out rotation timelines and swap patterns, typically ranging from 6,000 to 8,000 miles.

The swap pattern for rotating tires depends on whether you have directional or symmetric (or asymmetric) tires and the type of vehicle you drive. Do not cross your set of directional tires to the other side of the car without having them dismounted from the rim, turned over and remounted. With this in mind, performance models — especially sports cars — are much more likely to feature directional tires.

Different tire rotation patterns exist for front-, rear- and all-wheel-drive vehicles. Your owner’s manual will list those options.

When to Replace Your Tires

Exactly when should you replace your tires? The industry rule of thumb is when the tread wears down to 1/16 inch. Otherwise, you can rely on wear indicators or bars located between the tread pattern in modern tires to assist you in making a determination. Specifically, these indicators appear when tires have 2/32 (1/16) inch tread remaining.

Relying on tread depth alone to determine tire replacement is not enough. A tire’s age is another factor as tires gradually begin to crack and separate over time. Some car manufacturers recommend replacing tires every six years, regardless of wear, while other tire manufacturers say that tires can last as long as 10 years, according to Edmunds.com.

Tire Safety: To Ensure a Safe Ride

Tire safety is only one ingredient in ensuring a safe drive. So, when you rotate your tires, have your brakes checked too. Furthermore, you should have your tires balanced every other time you rotate your tires or whenever you detect a recurring vibration coursing through the steering wheel while driving.

See Also — Higher Education: Winter Driving School

Photo copyright Bridgestone Tires of the Americas.

7 Signs of Transmission Troubles

August 8, 2017 by admin 1 Comment

Transmission replacement can damage your budget.

Car trouble can cost you dearly, especially if you ignore problems or put off repairs. Your car’s transmission transfers power from the engine to the wheels. When it fails, you might face thousands of dollars in repair costs, an expense you could have avoided by identifying and responding to problems quickly.

1. Check Engine Light

A lit check engine light can suggest any number of problems, including a loose gas gap. It can also serve as the first signal from your car’s computer that something is wrong with the transmission. Use your onboard diagnostics tool to determine the problem. If you do not have this tool, then take your car to your mechanic for an evaluation.

See: Forbes: What That Dreaded Check Engine Repair Will Cost You

2. Slippage and Shifting

automatic transmission Your car’s transmission should shift effortlessly, moving from gear to gear smoothly. Transmission problems are apparent when you first place your car in drive or in reverse and hesitation is present. A low fluid level might be the cause or the transmission belt may need adjustment or replacement.

3. Lack of Engagement

You turn your ignition, the engine roars to life, and you begin to shift your car into gear. That shifting may require great effort or it may not happen at all. For a manual transmission, a clutch may have worn out. For an automatic transmission, the problem may be as simple as not having enough fluid or it could point to a much more serious matter. Check the transmission fluid first, replenish or replace as needed, then try engaging your transmission again. If the problem persists, see a mechanic.

4. Clunking, Whining, and Chattering

Odd noises that seem to be coming from your transmission such as clunking, whining and chattering point to potentially serious problems. Such noises may or may not occur in conjunction with slippage and shifting problems, and could point to other problems such as with your differential or CV joints. Have your mechanic identify the source of the problem and fix it immediately.

See: CarsDirect.com: 4 Most Common Transmission Problems

5. Burning Odor

Your transmission fluid should be clear and smell clean with virtually no odor detected. Traditionally, transmission fluids were always red or pink, but today’s car manufacturers may use fluids that are green, blue or yellow. An important trouble indicator is a burning odor, one sign that your transmission may be overheating. Usually, dirty or insufficient fluid is the reason for the burning smell, a problem often resolved by changing the transmission fluid.

6. Rock and Roll

Transmission problems may become apparent when operating your vehicle at highway speeds. Rocking, rolling and shaking may occur suddenly, indicating pending transmission failure. It might also point to other problems such as with the engine or suspension system. Take your car to a mechanic for an accurate diagnosis.

7. Fluid Leak

At any time you notice fluid dripping from underneath your car, you should examine where it is coming from. Quite often, it is water from your air conditioner’s condenser, thus the liquid will be clear. In cases where the liquid has a color, you need to rule out engine oil, power steering, and then brake fluid first. This is easier to do if the fluid on the ground matches the color of your transmission fluid, enabling you to correctly identify the problem.

See: CarTalk: Service Your Car

Reference Your Owner’s Manual

Check your car’s service manual for prescribed transmission maintenance intervals. Just as motor oil greases your engine, transmission fluid lubricates your transmission. Change both the fluid and the filter when servicing your transmission.

Photo attribution — “Automatic Transmission” by Vestman is licensed under CC BY 2.0

My Car Maintenance Schedule: Normal or Severe?

July 14, 2017 by admin 2 Comments

A Valvoline expert weighs in with advice on maintenance schedules, motor oil & lubricants.

Macy's New York — Urban drivers face much stop-and-go traffic and should follow
the manufacturer’s “severe” maintenance schedule.

The owner’s manual is your car’s bible, an authoritative document carefully assembled by the automaker. Manuals are specific to each model, offering details about the car that the manufacturer understands best.

One important section is the maintenance schedule (occasionally presented as a separate maintenance booklet) and typically divided into two sections based on your driving habits: normal and severe. Indeed, the differences between the two are often compared to night and day — with much tighter maintenance intervals for severe driving.

So, which schedule should most drivers follow? If you answered “normal” you are in for a surprise. With this in mind, let’s examine the schedule types and why following a “severe” schedule may be the best choice for most drivers, including you.

Deciphering Maintenance Schedules

Car manufacturers set the parameters for what constitutes “normal” and “severe” duty schedules. Fortunately, there are only small differences between how manufacturers define each. In any event, we’ll cover the generalities — avoiding most specifics, as in down to particular miles driven and time intervals.

For professional input, Auto Trends reached out to Valvoline and spoke with Fran Lockwood, Ph.D., the company’s chief technology officer. Dr. Lockwood is a chemical engineer possessing decades of experience in lubricants research and development.

Chevrolet Truck — Old truck? Yes, there is a motor oil for that.

Generally speaking, our discussion centered on what constitutes severe driving, including:

1. Hot weather driving in an urban setting.

Dr. Lockwood noted that a combination of high heat and stop-and-go traffic conspire to wear out cars faster. Specifically, lubricants found within motor oil break down rapidly under these conditions. As a result, adhering to a normal schedule will only wear out your engine quicker.

2. Short trips of under five miles.

If you live in an urban area, stop-and-go traffic isn’t the only condition that can take its toll on your vehicle. For instance, short trips to work, the grocery store, school, entertainment venues and other nearby locations may not involve much traffic. That said, each trip of no more than five miles creates an accumulation of water vapor, diluting the motor oil and reducing efficacy. Further, several other parts suffer as well — you’ll find yourself replacing your muffler more frequently, for example.

3. Regular towing, including a boat, trailer or camper.

The added pulling power required to tow something behind your vehicle puts more stress on a car, truck or an SUV. Not only is the engine pressured to work harder, but the protecting lubricants break down faster. Some other car parts affected include the brakes, tires, transmission, coolant and exhaust systems.

4. Consistently driving on non-pavement surfaces — dirt, gravel and off-road.

Regular travel on unpaved roads and surfaces can clog the air filter, which keeps dirt from entering the engine. Indeed, the harsher the surface, the harder your vehicle must work to take you where you’re heading. Additionally, dirt-covered or sandy surfaces as well as rocky or muddy roads take a toll on the suspension, brakes, tires, and paint.

Some of the other conditions that may adversely impact your car include temperature extremes and mountainous driving. In particular, operating a vehicle in temperatures regularly below 0º F or above 90º F is hard on your car. Moreover, hot temperatures accompanied by high humidity will break down the oil faster and drain the car’s battery. Even if the battery makes it through the summer, it could be dead come winter.

VW TSI Engine — Every manufacturer has guidelines specific to the model and engine.

A Matter of Synthetic Motor Oils

Car manufacturers are increasingly turning to synthetic lubricants in an effort to improve fuel economy and to meet ever increasing government-mandated mileage thresholds. Where vehicles once commonly used 10W-40 or 5W-30 motor oils, today 5W-20 and 0W-20 oils are more prevalent. Indeed, such lower-viscosity motor oils have the advantage of flowing through the engine with less resistance, thereby improving fuel efficiency.

Synthetics stretch out maintenance intervals as car manufacturers have long since moved away from the old 3,000-mile or 3-month standard, whichever comes first. Non-synthetic oils may now offer a 5,000-mile interval, while synthetics routinely deliver 10,000 miles (Toyota) or 15,000 miles (Jaguar). Thus, synthetics are more forgiving to people who are no longer in the habit of regularly checking their oil levels.

Choosing a synthetic oil keeps “the whole engine cleaner and improves fuel economy,” explained Dr. Lockwood. That said, she noted motorists should also keep tabs on the fueling system, given its propensity to attract dirt. For example, a 16-ounce bottle of Valvoline Syn Power fuel treatment cleans dirty fuel injectors, intake valves, and combustion chambers by removing accumulating deposits. When added to the fuel tank, this particular product improves cold start, reduces emissions, and restores fuel efficiency.

The Bottom Line

Although synthetic oils last longer and perform well under severe conditions, you need to regularly check your oil level as you do your other fluids. Ultimately, your owner’s manual offers the best guidance on car care — when followed, you’ll avoid costly repairs and extend the life of your vehicle.

How to Make Your Wheels Sparkle

May 8, 2013 by admin 1 Comment

You have just finished washing and waxing your car, but there is one very important step that remains: putting some sparkle back into your tires and steel wheels. Dirty wheels can detract from your vehicle’s look. Here is how you can quickly and easily restore them to a like-new sheen.

Assemble Your Tools

You will need several tools and supplies for handling wheel cleaning. While you are cleaning your wheels, you will be giving your tires a fresh look too.

wheels Start off with a garden hose, a bucket filled with clean lukewarm water and a soft bristle brush. Choose nylon bristles as any other type might scratch your wheels. Your auto parts store will have a variety of brushes available for your selection. Choose a brush with a long plastic handle and long bristles measuring at least one foot in length. A large soft sponge, a bag of lint-free rags and a dedicated wheel and tire cleaner are also required. Optionally, a soft bristle toothbrush can be useful.

Wash and Dry

Cleaning your wheels follows the washing of your car. Before you begin, ensure that the wheels are completely dry and are not hot to the touch. Heat can interact with the cleaning agent, leaving spots behind.

Use one or two of the shop rags you purchased to wipe down each wheel. Put the dirty rags to the side when done.

Apply the Cleaner

Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines when applying wheel cleaner and work on one wheel at a time.

Liberally spray the tire and wheel until soaked. Take the soft bristle brush and work it through every wheel opening. For tight openings, use the toothbrush. Keep brushing until brake dust, dirt and other debris has been completing loosened. Dip dirty brushes in the bucket to rinse off as you go. Dampen the sponge and run it around the surface of the tire.

Rinse and Dry

Once done with one wheel, rinse it off with the garden hose and dry. All cleanser residue must be removed before drying.

Take a shop rag and wipe down the tire. Take a second shop rag and dry off the wheels. Push the rag in and out between each opening until the wheel has been thoroughly dried. Dirty rags should be placed to the side. Repeat steps two, three and four with the subsequent wheels.

Wheels Caution

The cleaning instructions for polished, painted, chrome-plated and certain other wheels are different and usually involve using a mild detergent and water only. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the cleaning of speciality wheels.

See Also — When Should You Tune Your Car?

Why Does My Gas Mileage Vary?

December 8, 2012 by admin 1 Comment

Estimating gas mileage is something that the Environmental Protection Agency leaves in the hands of car manufacturers. The mileage that you see published on the window sticker represents an estimate for city and highway driving as well as a combined mileage estimate based on 55 percent local driving and 45 percent highway driving.

Gas Mileage

Although the EPA estimates offer a good guideline, your mileage will likely vary. And, lest you think manufacturers can submit any number and get away with it, that is not the case. In November 2012, Hyundai and Kia admitted that it had overestimated fuel economy on a number of its vehicles and has been fined by the EPA. Moreover, the two Korean companies will have to compensate affected vehicle owners and will likely face multiple lawsuits over erroneous MPG claims. An EPA audit of the two companies followed extensive consumer complaints about lousy gas mileage.

According to the EPA, your gas mileage will still vary and for the following reasons:

1. How and where you drive — Clearly, if you put the pedal to the metal and are one to use your vehicle as a race car, then your gas mileage will come in lower than the EPA estimates. Also, if nearly all of your driving is around town, your gas mileage will fall. Then again, if you do extensive highway driving and use your cruise control, you can get better gas mileage.

2. Maintenance and condition — If you follow your manufacturer’s recommended maintenance intervals, keep your tires properly inflated and change your air filters before they get clogged, then your gas mileage will not suffer. Neglect your maintenance and you will see your fuel economy fall accordingly.

3. Types of fuel — Winter blend fuel is less efficient than summer blend and E85 fuel will cause your gas mileage to drop by up to 30 percent. Use the grade of gasoline that is recommended for your car.

4. Vehicle differences — No two vehicles are alike and weight differences of several hundred pounds are possible. For instance, all-wheel-drive generally adds weight to a vehicle. Added equipment including roof rails, door steps, larger wheels, safety features and an extra row of seating can also impact gas mileage. By the way, the fuel economy estimates are for a vehicle with a single occupant; fill up your SUV with seven people, lots of luggage and pull a camper and your gas mileage will plunge.

5. A new car — New cars still have a break-in period ranging from approximately 500 to 1,000 miles. This means that the piston rings on the new engine still have to adjust and your gas mileage will come in lower, at least initially according to CarTalk.com.

(See Also — Fuel Types and Your Car)

Your Mileage

Yes, your fuel mileage will vary and will often come in under EPA estimates. However, you may be able to beat the averages too by babying your car, taking it easy on the accelerator and the brake, and using cruise control on the open road.

See Also — Top Tips for Getting Better Gas Mileage