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Its Not Too Late For Winter Tires

December 2, 2015 by admin 2 Comments

winter driving — Icy road conditions mean winter tires a must.

Winter has arrived (despite what the calendar says) and the holiday season is in full swing. From Thanksgiving through Christmas and on to New Year’s Day, many families will be traveling at distances not seen since the summer.

If your travels include driving, you need to ensure that your car is up to the task. And if you live where winter conditions are present, then a set of winter tires are an important consideration. Its not too late for winter tires — here’s what you need to know about them.

All-Season or Winter Tires

Nearly all new cars sold today are outfitted with all-season tires. The name implies that these tires are sufficient for spring, summer, fall and winter driving, and they are. But if you live in an area where icy conditions are present, all-season tires do not provide the level of traction needed. Even with traction control systems present in today’s cars, you may need winter tires.

Winter tires — also known as snow tires — have a different tread pattern and are composed of a softer rubber compound than all-season tires. This means winter tires are more supple in frigid weather and take hold of the road better than all-season tires. This evidence becomes especially important when frozen precipitation such as snow and ice pellets are on the road.

Hyundai Genesis — All-season tires as pictured are not sufficient when ice is present.

Studded or Studless

There are two types of winter tires made — studded and studless.

Studded tires come with metal studs embedded within the tread. The studs are composed of small, but durable pieces of metal, ideal for digging into ice. The drawback with such tires is that they can damage the road, especially when they’ve been cleared of ice and snow. That’s why in some states studded tires are legal only for select times of the year. For instance, Oregon allows studded tires from November 1 through March 31.

As the name implies, studless tires do away with the road harming studs found in studded tires. Instead, such tires are composed of special compounds and are flexible, and are better able to handle a variety of road conditions. Typically, such tires have deep tread depths, a design that disperses snow and slush under the tire. The tread blocks in such tires are designed to pack in the snow to provide better traction. Such tires are also imbued with thousands of sipes or tiny slits in the tread pattern that help with vehicle acceleration, deceleration, and stopping.

Two or Four Winter Tires

In times past, especially when most cars were rear-wheel drive, owners would mount their winter tires to the rear wheels and leave the front tires alone. The problem here is that traction and handling capabilities are different from axle to axle, making such a vehicle more difficult to control.

If you have a front-wheel-drive car, placing winter tires on the front axle will lead to similar control issues. In this case, the rear wheels will slip, whereas the front wheels would slip in the example of the rear-wheel-drive car.

The best approach here is to always operate “like” tires on all four corners of your vehicle. The tires should be the same size and make, have identical tread, and be worn equally. So, if you opt for winter tires, then go with four or have none at all.

Safe Travels

Now that you know the difference between tires and the placement of same, you can typically find deals when buying four tires instead of two. Some car owners prefer to have a separate set of rims for each tire set, storing their offseason tires in a cool, dry and sunless area, such as in a garage or a shed.

Stack tires flat so that the bottom tire maintains its shape. Lower the air pressure of each tire to 10 psi and if you have storage bags made specifically for tires, then use them.

See Also — Higher Education: Winter Driving School

Safety on the Road: Winter Driving Precautions

October 8, 2014 by admin 2 Comments

Taking to the road when winter driving conditions are present can be dangerous, but not entirely unavoidable. Slush, ice and snow may not be enough to keep you at home, especially if you are required at work or have some other appointment to keep. Before you take to the road, your car should be in tip-top shape. You should also keep in mind the following winter driving precautions to keep you, your family and everyone else safe.

Check All Reports

It is good to check your local weather station for advisories, including ever-changing weather conditions. You should know when temperatures are expected to rise above the freezing mark and find out what the traffic conditions are between your home and your destination.

In all states you can dial “511” to obtain travel information, including details about mountain passes and other potentially hazardous routes. Your state’s department of transportation website is a good place to visit as well as related Twitter and Facebook pages.

What Tires Are Permitted

In some areas you won’t be permitted to drive if your car is not outfitted with the proper tires. Typically, all-season tires with a M+S rating or symbol are sufficient. But these tires must also have enough tread. One-eighth of an inch of tread is usually enough to take to the road. Better yet, winter tires all around can provide the grip you need.

Conditions in some areas, such as mountain passes, may be especially hazardous. If the road is still open, you may find that tire chains are required. An exception may be made for all- and four-wheel drive vehicle —but when conditions are extreme, chains may be required for all vehicles.

Carry the Right Equipment

It is advisable that you leave for your destination with your gas tank filled. This is especially important if your trip will take you many miles away where open gas stations may be scarce. Your car should be in excellent condition with a recently flushed radiator, a good battery and working belts and hoses. Verify that your heater and defroster are working too.

Bring with you an emergency kit and other supplies. A working flashlight with an extra set of batteries, a cell phone cable and a back up battery, an ice scraper and snow brush, road flares, jumper cables and a first aid kit can be helpful too. If you are driving in a remote area bring with you winter clothing gear, a blanket, food and water. Provide a copy of your itinerary to someone who isn’t making the trip with you.

On the Road

When you’re ready to take to the road, go slow. Leave plenty of room between you and other vehicles — it can take three times as long to stop when the roads are slippery. Don’t rely only on your daytime running lights to mark your way, especially if it is snowing — turn on your headlights.

As you approach a traffic light or a stop sign, slow down. Keep in mind that off-ramps and bridges can be especially slippery. If you are following a snow plow, make sure that you can see the driver’s side mirrors — that means he can see you.

Winter Driving: Know the Law

In some states, you can use studded tires for only certain months before they must be removed. Even so, studded tires may not meet your state’s chain requirement, therefore keeping a set of chains with you is a wise choice.

5 Car Dangers That Come from Cold Weather

January 29, 2014 by Doug Climenhaga 1 Comment

There’s more to winter than bigger heat bills. In the automotive world, frigid temps may lead to unique problems that don’t show up at other times of the year. Look through these five dangers that come from cold weather and make sure your car is ready to deal with the rest of the winter.

1. Dead battery: It might be an all-too-familiar winter scene: A driver puts the key in the ignition, turns it, and the engine cranks sluggishly or not at all. Maybe the headlights and dashboard lights are dim, too — it could be a dead battery. Confirm that the battery is the problem is by checking the voltage. You can use a voltmeter or a dedicated battery tester, but each requires a different set of steps for checking the battery. If you’re not calling a service for help, consult your owner’s manual and be sure you know how to jumpstart the car. Stock your trunk with an emergency kit in case a dead car battery leaves you stranded in the cold: heavy coat, gloves, blanket, flashlight, snacks and water.

2. Cracked windshield wipers: After being frozen and unfrozen a few times in the winter, your car’s windshield wipers won’t perform as they once did. If you notice that they are skipping across the windshield or leaving streaks in your line of vision, check the wiper blades. If the rubber is warped or cracked, replace the blades. Also, make sure you have enough windshield washer fluid to last your journey. There’s not much more frustrating (not to mention dangerous, for you and other drivers) than running out of washer fluid on a slushy day in a high-traffic area.

3. Radiator problems: The radiator of a car keeps the engine at the proper temperature, whether it’s sweltering hot or bitterly cold outside. Antifreeze, or coolant, absorbs engine heat and dissipates it through the radiator. A half-and-half mixture of antifreeze and water is sufficient for your car to start and run in the cold. If the engine’s cooling system isn’t properly filled, or if the coolant is too diluted, your radiator could freeze, the car won’t start and you could end up with a cracked, leaking radiator. The next time you’re at the mechanic, they can check the level of your antifreeze and may recommend a flush of the system. Old antifreeze can be full of dirt and rust, which can lead to corrosion and leaks, and eventually overheating.

4. Salt-covered car body: While road salt keeps everyone safer in icy conditions, the resultant coating of salt is bad for the body of the car. The salt sits there for days or even weeks, and over the long run, that salt can cause rust. Wash your car when the temperature allows. The good news is that with improved corrosion-resistant coatings on newer cars, it will take salt a long time to eat its way to the metal — metal (not paint) rusts. If you go to a drive-through car wash, pick one that washes the undercarriage of the vehicle, where there are more hidden spots that can rust due to salt corrosion.

5. Tires deflating: Heat causes tire pressure to rise, and cold weather causes it to drop. Do not be surprised if your low-pressure indicator light turns on after a cold snap. If your car is older than model year 2008 and it doesn’t have a tire pressure monitoring system, check the pressure with a tire gauge before driving after the first cold day of the season. The proper PSI (pounds per square inch) for your tires will be on a sticker inside the driver-side door or in the owner’s manual. Do not go by the pressure listed on the tire itself — this is the maximum allowable pressure and is likely not the same as the manufacturer-recommended PSI. Optimum tire pressure allows your car to be fuel efficient, and, most importantly in the winter, to have the best traction and stopping time.

Cold Weather Care

Watch for signs of these potential dangers before you head out for a winter drive, especially before a longer journey. Just because winter is underway doesn’t mean it’s too late to check and address any of these hazards. What other winter car problems do you frequently run into?

See Also — 5 Tips for Driving at Night

What Makes Today’s Internal Combustion Engines More Efficient?

May 16, 2013 by admin 3 Comments

Internal Combustion Engine: First Use

Karl Benz registered his first car in July 1886, the three-wheeled Benz Patent Motor Car, model no. 1. That single cylinder four-stroke engine produced three-quarters of a horsepower and included an automatic intake slide, a controlled exhaust valve, and evaporation cooling.

Karl Friedrich Benz, first internal combustion engine — Karl Friedrich Benz.

Various engine refinements were made in the intervening century, but it wasn’t until recent years that new technologies began to make a big difference. Today’s internal combustion engines are smaller, lighter and more powerful than engines built a generation ago, delivering improved fuel economy and emitting fewer emissions thanks to several important technologies common today.

Fuel Injection

Drivers who grew up with cars outfitted with a carburetor can certainly appreciate that fuel injectors took over by the early 1990s. The lowly carburetor was inclined to flood the engine, cause hesitation or contribute to fast idling.

With fuel injection, fuel is atomized by forcibly pumping it through a highly pressurized, small nozzle. The air/fuel mixture is precise, minimizes waste and is cost effective. Give credit to fuel injectors for improving fuel economy, enhancing engine performance and for reducing emissions.

Aluminum Engines

Iron block engines are heavier and less efficient than aluminum block engines, the latter providing weight savings of up to 50 percent. Earlier aluminum engines, however, were prone to warping, but advancements in engineering have largely eliminated that risk.

Lighter engines are part of today’s product mix, what car manufacturers have been using to help lighten vehicle curb weights. Smaller aluminum engines coupled with other technologies mean that performance has been retained and fuel economy correspondingly improved.

Direct Injection

Internal combustion engine — Gasoline direct injection engine.

Where fuel injectors have replaced carburetors, direct injection systems are showing up as a replacement for earlier fuel injection systems. Also known as gasoline direct injection technology, fuel injectors are still widely used today.

Earlier fuel injection systems sprayed fuel into the intake manifold. With direct injection, fuel is sprayed directly into the engine chamber for a leaner mix of fuel. Direct injection burns more efficiently, reduces waste and is controlled by the engine’s computer to ensure precise delivery.

Variable Valve Timing

Multi-valve technology has given way to variable valve timing, the latter designed to enhance engine output. Valves are tasked with activating the breathing of the engine by timing air intake and exhaust.

Breathing is optimized by making it possible to vary the valve timing at different speeds and loads to correspond to varying work conditions. Those conditions are: low speed high load, high speed high load, partial load and lower temperature start and idling.

Components of a typical, four-stroke cycle, DOHC piston engine.
(E) Exhaust camshaft, (I) Intake camshaft, (S) Spark plug, (V) Valves,
(P) Piston, (R) Connecting rod, (C) Crankshaft,
(W) Water jacket for coolant flow.

Overhead Cam Shafts

Overhead valve engines have given way to overhead cam shaft engines, although OHV is still used in some designs including Chrysler’s HEMI engines. With OHC engines, the camshaft is smaller and is placed above the cylinder head instead of in the engine block. An OHC design permits additional intake and exhaust valves for an improved flow of air, fuel and exhaust.

OHC engines are marked as either SOHC for single overhead camshaft or DOHC for double overhead camshaft. As with other engine improvements OHC adds to the cost of delivering a more complex design.

Computer Systems

So far as changes in engine construction, delivery systems and design have made today’s engines more efficient, perhaps the biggest gains would not have been realized apart from the advancements made with today’s in-car computer systems.

On-board diagnostic computers showed up in the 1980s and were improved and standardized beginning with OBD-II’s release in 1996. However, it is the engine control unit (ECU) that controls ignition timing as well as the air/fuel mixture, fuel delivery and idle to optimize performance. Your vehicle’s performance, fuel economy and emissions output is largely dependent on the ECU. Yes, other computer chips are present too and are tasked with handling safety systems, navigation, the transmission and climate control.

Internal Combustion Engine Outlook

Despite the rise of vehicle electrification, including hybrids and pure electric vehicles, the outlook for the internal combustion engine remains bright. Today’s engines are much more complex and expensive, but the cost remains below that of emerging EV technologies.

Karl Benz and internal combustion engine photo credits: Wikipedia.

How to Drive in Winter

November 30, 2010 by admin 1 Comment

Let’s face it: at some point over the winter, you will encounter treacherous road conditions if you live or are passing through an area prone to icing. Black ice, blizzard conditions, howling winds, and careless drivers can make your trip a challenge, even life-threatening.

skid row — Careful winter driving can help you avoid dangerous skidding.

Staying off the road is the best advice, by letting the storm run its course and giving road crews a chance to clear everything away. However, sometimes you have to head out or finish your road journey lest you become stranded. Before setting out or continuing down the road, keep the following in mind to avoid becoming a road casualty:

Prep your car – Any car with maintenance issues should not be driven – you will only raise the specter of breaking down on the road. Your car should be tuned up, the oil changed, new wipers in place, fluids flushed and/or replenished, leaks handled and the car battery in optimal condition. Fill up your gas tank too. All-season radials are not sufficient for heavy snows – put on a pair of snow tires.

Bring supplies – Carry sandbags in your car for traction as well as for helping you to dig out should you become stuck. Bring along a shovel, brush, deicer, jumper cables, flash light, extra batteries, road flares, coolant, tools, rags, paper towels, duct tape, and tire inflator. You can visit Edmunds for tips on how to assemble a do-it-yourself emergency road kit.[1]

Recharge your phone – Bring along a cell phone and make sure it is fully charged before heading out. Carry a recharger with you and remember that your phone may not be able to connect in remote areas. However, with GPS capability, your active cell phone may help searchers find you.[2]

Check lights – Walk around your car to make sure that headlamps, tail lights, fog lights, turn signals, and brake lights are working. Replace burned-out bulbs.

Head out – Roads may appear clear, but black ice may be present. No vehicle, including 44 SUVs and cars with traction control and brake assist can stop a car from sliding. Start your trip off slowly and do not assume that road conditions will be the same from highway to highway. Stay in the right lane, turn the steering wheel slowly and gradually brake as needed. Sudden acceleration or braking can cause your car to spin out of control. Always turn your front wheels into a skid.[3]

Consider sharing your planned route with someone who will not be taking this trip with you. That way, if you do not arrive at your destination, emergency personnel can be sent out. If you belong to an auto club, have their toll free number handy in case you get stuck.

Bring along a blanket, food, and water. Pull off the road from time to time to clear off accumulating snow and ice. If coming to the aid of another stranded motorist, call 911 for assistance as needed.

Once you arrive at your destination, you will want to make sure that your car has made it through its adventure unharmed. Tires may need additional air and under the hood fluids replenished. Repeat the steps outlined earlier before returning or continuing with your trip.

References

[1] Edmunds: How To Create Your Own Roadside Emergency Kit

[2] LovetoKnow: How to Trace a Cell Phone Location

[3] Department of Energy – Ask a Scientist: Skidding Direction

See Also — 7 Winter Storage Tips for Classic Cars

“Skid Row” by Tiberiu Ana is licensed under CC BY 2.0

Are Electric Cars Really Better Than Gas Cars?

April 15, 2010 by admin 1 Comment

Electric cars, are they really better?

Vehicle electrification is in the news thanks to recent announcements of the planned launch of several electric-powered vehicles, including the Nissan Leaf, Fisker Karma and the Ford Transit Connect EV. Electric vehicles offer distinct advantages over their gas-powered counterparts although their price premium can offset some of those benefits.

History

Fisker Karma Electric cars are nothing new, having been sold a century ago by manufacturers such as Detroit Electric. Gas powered cars began to dominate the market by the 1920s because fuel was plentiful and they were cheap to build.

Credit Henry Ford for figuring out a way to mass produce passenger cars and get them to the masses.

Electrification

New technologies have made modern vehicle electrification a possibility. These cars are powered by sophisticated lithium-ion battery packs which are smaller and lighter than nickel-cadmium batteries used in many of today’s gas-electric hybrid models.

Look for cars such as the Ford Fusion Hybrid and Toyota Camry Hybrid to eventually switch to li-ion battery packs. The all new Hyundai Sonata Hybrid will use li-ion batteries from the get go when it is released later this year.

Fewer Parts

Though battery systems are complicated, electric cars do not have a gas engine, multi-speed transmission or an emissions system. Fewer parts mean less to maintain, though the long-term maintenance of any EV is not yet known.

We have already seen that ni-cad batteries last a lot longer than what some people thought they would, with many Toyota Prius cars far exceeding 100,000 miles on the odometer.

Environmental Impact

Electric cars emit zero emissions, run quietly and consume fewer resources while on the road.

However, energy is consumed at the power grid level as electricity is usually derived from coal-fired electric plants. Those plants spew large amounts of carbon dioxide into the air, canceling out some of the benefits of EVs

See Also — About Lucid Motors

Very Fast

Electric only vehicles are fast as they constantly operate at peak torque. The Tesla Roadster, for example, can go from zero to sixty in under four seconds. In a culture that prizes speed, the electric vehicle does not disappoint.

Electric vehicles will catch on only with the help of government support and buyers willing to give this technology a try. Rebates and tax credits at the federal and state level will bring prices down which means we’ll likely see a lot more of them on the road in the next few years.

So, are electric vehicles better than gas vehicles? That depends how you define “better” and whether you’re willing to accept certain limitations such as a limited range and higher initial cost in exchange for uncomparable fuel economy and unknown long-term durability.

Photo courtesy Fisker Motors.

Winter Driving Means Exercising Special Precautions Throughout The Season

December 30, 2008 by admin 1 Comment

Cold air has pushed down from Canada while moisture is moving east out of the Rockies, a dynamic mixture that means only one thing: snow, ice and freezing rain will impact all of the midwest and northeast over the next few days, making driving treacherous in some areas. Certainly, if you don’t have to be out on the roads during the worst of natures fury, you’ll want to ride this storm out.

It seems that the auto clubs and insurance companies are each doing their part to alert drivers of the pending problems of venturing out on the highway during the worst of the weather, urging people to wait the storm out. But, as we all know, work beckons and some of us are still away from home during the holiday season and needing to get back to where we live. A one day delay may not be possible for everyone.

“The best defense is preparation,” said Mike Convery, chief claim officer at MetLife Auto & Home. “Experience has shown us that many winter-related claims are avoidable, which is why it’s important to make sure your vehicle’s well-equipped and in good condition to take on the cold weather. By taking precautions, and being aware of what actions to take when you’re on the road, you may be able to avoid a serious accident and protect your loved ones from injury.”

Before the snow starts to fall, consider the following:

Give your vehicle a tune-up. Check the level of antifreeze and windshield wiper fluid, and make sure the battery is fully charged. If you haven’t changed your wiper blades in the past six months, purchase a fresh set.
Inspect your tires for bulges and uneven wear. If you get stuck in the snow, worn tires won’t be much help. Worn tire can also create potentially dangerous situations, too, such as a blowout on the road.
Keep emergency gear in your car. Make sure you have things like a flashlight, jumper cables, ice scraper, shovel, and snow brush, windshield wiper fluid, and warning devices (such as flares). Also, consider packing a “winter survival kit” that includes blankets, a bright piece of cloth to tie to your antenna, a flashlight with spare batteries, non-perishable foods, such as candy bars, and waterproof matches.

Snow, ice, and extreme cold can also cause problems for vehicles, especially during snow and ice storms, when driving can become treacherous. When braving the winter weather:

Drive slowly. Let someone know what route you’re taking and when you plan to arrive, so they can take action and alert authorities, if you don’t get there or are unreasonably delayed.
Consider the road conditions. Driving over the speed limit—or even at normal speed that would be considered unreasonable based on the conditions —can be hazardous, and the extra time you gain isn’t worth the risk.
Avoid ice patches. Avoid icy skids by matching your speed to the road conditions and taking precautions on curves and turns by slowing down in advance. Also, remember that ice patches are particularly common on-ramps, bridges, and overpasses, which tend to freeze first.
Slide smart. To bring a sliding car under control, remove your foot from both the accelerator and brake pedals, unless your vehicle has an antilock braking system (ABS). In that case, depress the brake pedal as hard as possible until the vehicle stops moving. Meanwhile, turn the steering wheel in the direction you want the front wheels to go and continue steering and counter steering.

Even with the best of precautions, your car may still end up stuck in a snowbank. Above all, don’t panic: try to push the snow out of the way of the wheels, by turning the steering wheel from side to side a few times or digging out with a shovel. Ease forward, keeping a light touch on the gas, and don’t spin the wheels or you’ll dig yourself in deeper. Rock the vehicle, shifting from forward to reverse and back again. If this doesn’t work, use your cell phone to call for help and then wait in your car, because it’s easy to get disoriented in the snow.

To stay warm, turn on the motor for 10 minutes every hour for heat, and make sure you have your window open a crack, for fresh air. Check to ensure that snow is not blocking the exhaust pipe. For best visibility, light two flares and place one at each end of the car, a safe distance away.

I also recommend that drivers not leave home without some sort of auto club arrangement in place. We’ve had a lot of success with AAA over the years, an auto club that provides towing, lockout service, car restart and other services. The last thing you want is to be stuck in a snowbank somewhere and needing the state to shovel you out – you’ll be responsible for that bill and you could end up causing a much worse accident!

Source: MetLife Auto & Home

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