car maintenance

How to Safely Remove Car Battery Corrosion

July 23, 2018 by admin 2 Comments

Without proper attention, your car’s battery can corrode, possibly leaving you without a working car. Corrosion can drain power out of a battery and shorten its life. Battery corrosion is typically apparent at the terminals, a problem that can be resolved by careful cleaning.

battery terminal corrosion — How to remove corrosion from a car battery.

1. Assemble Your Tools and Supplies

Gather the essential tools and supplies required to tackle this job. You will need to put on a pair of safety glasses and work gloves. Avoid wearing your good clothes as you will come in contact with grease and dirt. You will need a stiff wire brush, a cup of lukewarm or cold water, a box of baking soda, a teaspoon and rags. An old toothbrush, pliers, a wrench and petroleum jelly round out your tools and supplies.

2. Disconnect the Battery

Park your car outside, preferably in your driveway or in the street. Lift and secure the car’s hood, then locate the battery. In some vehicles, the battery can be found underneath the rear passenger seat or in the trunk. Take the wrench and pliers to the black (negative) connection or post and loosen same. Repeat this process with the red (positive) connection. Place your tools away from the battery cables to avoid contact resulting in an electrical shock.

3. Remove Car Battery Corrosion

Take your teaspoon and fill it with baking soda. Combine this powder with your cup of water and stir. Gradually pour approximately half the solution over each battery post, then place this mixture to the side. Take your wire brush or old toothbrush and brush off the remaining corrosion. You can dip the brush into the mixture or pour the remaining amount over the terminals as needed. For tough cases allow this solution to penetrate for at least five minutes. Continue brushing until all corrosion has been removed.

4. Preparation and Clean Up

Dry off the battery, wiping it down with a clean rag. Wipe down the battery cables. Discard your rag. Apply petroleum directly to each battery post liberally. Reconnect the battery cables beginning with the positive connection followed by the negative connection. Tighten each connection with your pliers or wrench. Remove all tools and supplies, close the hood and start your car to ensure that it will run. You might also consider moving the car away from the work area and bringing out the garden hose to wash away the corrosive residue left on the ground.

Getting the Job Done

Battery corrosion removal and care can be successfully handled within 15 to 20 minutes. Make this an annual task and you will avoid potential problems that can leave you stranded or shorten your battery’s useful life.

See Also — Care Tips for Your New Vehicle

Photo courtesy of Mark Buckawicki, The Public Domain Project

Care Tips for Your New Vehicle

May 1, 2018 by admin 6 Comments

How to keep your vehicle running smoothly for years to come.

You have just driven off the dealer’s lot and are in possession of your first new car in some time, perhaps in many years. Likely, you will own this vehicle for the long haul, perhaps keeping it for a decade or longer.

Today’s cars typically do not have a formal break-in period that older models once had. That is due to cars being engineered differently as current technologies such as computer chips control everything from engine performance to emissions. Still, there are some things you can do to pamper your ride, protecting the average $36,270 investment that Kelley Blue Book says we are making as of January 2018.

This Volkswagen Atlas is a three-row, midsize crossover SUV.

Read the Owner’s Manual

The best place to start when desiring to become familiar with your car is with the owner’s manual. This book is usually found in the glovebox and is often overlooked by car owners.

Your owner’s manual was developed by the manufacturer, who best understands how your car operates. You will find everything you need there, including how to operate that complex navigation system, explain warranty information and answer just about every question you have about your vehicle. Consider it your car’s “bible” or the book of wisdom when it comes to your vehicle.

Know the Oil Change Intervals

Your owner’s manual shows oil change intervals that may be much higher than what you were accustomed to performing in the past. Today’s engines mean that you may be able to put 5,000 to 7,500 miles on the odometer between changes, saving you money.

New engines, however, should have an oil change soon after you buy the car. Mike Allen, writing for Popular Mechanics, advises changing the oil after 20 miles and again after 1,000 miles. The goal here is to rid the engine of residual metal flakes that can appear in new engines. Follow your manufacturer’s recommended oil change intervals after that.

2017 Ford Mustang — The Ford Mustang remains America’s best-selling sport coupe.

Normal vs. Severe Driving Operation

Perhaps your manufacturer insists that there is no break-in period for your new car. Even so, you may want to spend the first several hundred miles easing up on the accelerator and brakes. Familiarize yourself with the way that your new car moves away from a dead stop. Shift your transmission into gear, release the brake, and gradually press down on the accelerator. Bring your car up to the locally posted speed and maintain your speed as you drive.

By carefully accelerating and maintaining your speed you will also learn how to maximize your vehicle’s fuel economy. When stopping, gradually press down on the brake until you come to a full stop. Driving at high speeds can cause your brakes to wear out faster too as more energy must be used to slow down your car. If possible, reduce your speed by coasting before applying the brakes advises Edmunds.com.

Understand Vehicle Technologies

There was a time when a car equipped with an AM/FM radio with cassette player was considered “loaded.” Today’s cars have far more features standard or available including power windows, door locks and side mirrors; an infotainment system; a navigation system and other technologies that were not available the last time you bought a new car.

This can mean you are unfamiliar with what is in your car and how these technologies work. Refer to your owner’s manual and acquaint yourself with your vehicle’s operation. Test every system, familiarizing yourself with the way each one works. If you detect a problem, you will be covered under your manufacturer’s bumper-to-bumper warranty plan, but only if you inform your dealer of your findings.

2017 Nissan Titan XD vehicle — This 2017 Nissan Titan XD is designed to pull up to 12,000 pounds.

Trailer-Towing Guidelines

Perhaps you bought a car, truck or an SUV because of its towing capabilities. Towing, however, should wait until you have driven your vehicle for a while.Your owner’s manual will probably advise you when towing can may begin. For example, Ford advises owners to “…drive your new vehicle at least 1,000 miles before you tow a trailer.” Too much pulling way too early in the vehicle’s life may prove too much for the engine and the transmission.

You can also keep your car looking new by washing and waxing it. Remove bird droppings as soon as possible to protect the paint. After a major winter weather event, wash your car to eliminate corrosive road salt. Vacuum and wipe down the interior regularly, apply sealant to the dashboard and across the doors, and keep your tires properly inflated at all times.

Beyond the First Few Years

Finally, if you plan to keep your car for many years beyond the warranty coverage period, purchasing an extended warranty may be smart. However, we advise you making this purchase just before the original warranty elapses to ensure you’re not paying for duplicate coverage. Warranties are pricey, so shop around.

Check Engine Light On: How to Diagnose (OBD-II)

December 26, 2017 by admin 1 Comment

OBD-II device: your solution for what ails your car.

All cars built since 1996 are equipped with an industry-standard on-board diagnostic system. That system is always at work in the background, but will immediately alert you to a potential problem by turning on the check engine light and keeping it on until your car is serviced. There is no need to panic: as long as the light is stable and not flashing, you can perform a diagnosis yourself.

Get a Diagnostic Device

Purchase a diagnostic device. The current diagnostic system, also known as OBD-II, provides easy readout information to help you determine what is wrong with your car. Handheld diagnostic devices cost about $80 — what you would pay a mechanic for a diagnosis — and are available through your auto parts store. Choose one that is not specific to a vehicle brand, a device that can read and interpret data from any modern vehicle. See: What Does the Check-Engine Light Mean?

Locate Your Car’s OBD-II Port

That port is usually located under the lower dashboard on the driver’s side. Your owner’s manual will also list its location.

Connect to the OBD-II Port

Attach the cable portion (male) of the reader to the OBD-II (female) port. Press the on button to activate the reader and to obtain a read out. See: CNET: A Brief Intro to OBD-II technology

Interpret the Code

The screen of the reader will list a code, typically a letter followed by four numbers. For example, P0549. Certain code readers explain what the problem is by listing that information along with the code. Other readers provide a list of codes in a book that is included with the code reader. If the code is not listed in the book, it might be specific to your make only. Contact your vehicle’s service department for a diagnosis.

Reset the System

If the code suggests a problem that you can handle yourself such as a loose sensor, you can make the repair and attempt to clear the code from the OBD-II system. Your code reader may also come equipped with a reset button that will clear the code. If no reset button is available you can remove and reinstall the battery terminal in the reader. Then, restart your car and observe whether the code has cleared. If it has, then you have avoided a shop visit. If it hasn’t cleared, then contact your mechanic.

An OBD-II reader can pay for itself after just one use. You may prefer to see your mechanic anyway with the information obtained at least alerting you to the repair that must be made. Never ignore a check engine on light as whatever problem you have can worsen and cost you more money in repairs.

Wikimedia file photo credit — Ahsanriaz6157 Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-SA 4.0)

America’s Crumbling Infrastructure and Your Car

February 22, 2016 by admin 1 Comment

Americans shell out an average of $300 for each pothole-related vehicle repair. Time to fix the infrastructure!

pothole repair infrastructure — A federal maintenance and equipment staff member makes pothole repairs.
(U.S. Air Force Photo By/Josh Plueger)

America’s infrastructure of roads, bridges, and highways is in serious need of a major investment. Roads are in such disrepair in some areas that consumers are paying for it in personal repairs to their own vehicles (costing approximately $250 to over $1,000 per vehicle), to fix pothole-related damage according to a study conducted by AAA.

The motorist organization found that consumers made $15 billion in pothole-related vehicle repairs over the past five years, or about $3 billion per annum. Potholes routinely appear throughout the winter as roads freeze, thaw, and refreeze.

The Birth of a Pothole

The Michigan Department of Transportation adequately outlines the pothole development process in its four-step “Birth of a Pothole” graphic. It all begins when rain and snow seeps into the soil beneath the road surface. Then, when the ground freezes, it pushes the pavement up. Next, as temperatures climb, the ground returns to its normal level, but the pavement typically remains raised. Finally, a pothole is formed once a vehicle travels across the resultant cavity, damaging the road. It is that damage that causes potholes and puts all drivers at risk.

AAA cautions drivers be on the look out for potholes while at the same time urging local and state governments to prioritize road maintenance.

“In the last five years, 16 million drivers across the country have suffered pothole damage to their vehicles,” said John Nielsen, AAA’s managing director of Automotive Engineering and Repair. “The problems range from tire punctures and bent wheels, to more expensive suspension damage.”

Deep Financial Hit

The AAA survey revealed that lower- and middle-income drivers have the most concern about potholes. That’s expected given that such consumers will also experience a deeper financial impact. For people who live paycheck to paycheck and depend on their vehicles for their livelihood, pothole-incurred damage can prove devastating.

“On average, American drivers report paying $300 to repair pothole-related vehicle damage,” continued Nielsen. “Adding to the financial frustration, those whose vehicles incurred this type of damage had it happen frequently, with an average of three times in the last five years.”

Because of the elevated risk of encountering potholes, AAA offers suggestions for damage avoidance that go beyond slowing down and skirting road damage. For one, drivers should ensure that their tires are properly inflated. Having sufficient tread depth remaining is important too, as it provides additional cushioning between the vehicle and the pothole.

When Avoidance is Not Possible

When encountering a pothole, drivers cannot always safely avoid hitting one, but they can slow down, release the brakes and steer straight when driving over a pothole. Remaining on the alert for road damage and allowing sufficient room between vehicles can also help drivers avoid potholes explains AAA.

Annually, AAA claims its members make more than 4 million calls to for flat tire assistance, usually due to pothole damage. The motorist organization also found that the typical spare tire has been replaced by a tire inflator kit, but those kits are not sufficient for making repairs for destroyed tires. Instead, motorists should opt for a full-size spare and keep it properly inflated. Adding that tire to the vehicle’s normal tire rotation procedure is a wise decision too.

Making Infrastructure Repairs a National Priority

AAA believes that road conditions will only worsen until legislators make road repairs a national priority. Motorists rely heavily on a crumbling infrastructure, what includes sketchy bridges, inadequate tunnels, and porous roadways. In 2015, Congress increased transportation funding to meet those repairs, but AAA says that as much as $170 billion in additional funding is needed annually to adequately rectify the problem.

Should I Repair or Replace My Car?

October 23, 2015 by admin 4 Comments

You slip behind the wheel of your car, turn the key and…nothing. You’re not sure what’s wrong with your car this time and it really doesn’t matter whether it is the starter, alternator or the battery causing the problem. You’re facing repairs for the second or third time this year, a potential cost that has you asking — should I repair or replace my car?

Quite naturally, you may think that a repair is the easiest thing to do, one that will extract more money from your wallet, but when it is done puts you back behind the wheel of the car you’re most familiar with. An emotional connection sometimes plays in, but sentimentality can cost you money.

Before you call the garage to take your car in for repairs, pause for a few moments. Then, head to the Internet to find the current value of your vehicle, warts and all. Car valuation sites such as NADAGuides.com and AutoTrader.com can provide a fairly accurate value of your car. Take the two numbers and find a middle ground to determine its estimated value.

Next, contact your garage to get an estimate for the repairs. If the repair is especially significant, it may outstrip the value of your car. Or at least compose a significant chunk of that cost. You’re looking at repairs that should be bypassed and your car sold “as is” or donated to charity. Importantly, if the repair involves a safety issue or some other significant problem, it could lead to even more repairs later on. It is at this point you may want to avoid throwing good money after bad and extricate yourself from a bad situation.

Indeed, replacing a starter may not be a big deal. But if the problem is engine or transmission related, repairing or replacing the part will prove unreasonable. Notably, a major repair also poses an extraordinary inconvenience. You may find yourself without a car for a week or two — how will that impact your life? Will you be able to get to work? How will you get the children to school?

If your mechanic delivers to you bad news, get an estimate for the cost of the repairs. But don’t stop there: get at least two more estimates from other garages and compare all three. You may be able to save money by choosing remanufactured parts; you may also find some differences in the cost of labor. If you choose to keep your car, ask for a binding price. Insist that no additional repairs be made without your authorization.

Car problems can usually be avoided if you follow the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule. That information is found in the owner’s manual, typically found in your glove box. Two schedules are usually offered — regular and severe duty. Most consumers fall under the first category, but if you drive where conditions are dusty or extreme cold is common, then follow the latter. By following the maintenance schedule you will have a regular outlay of upkeep and may avoid the big financial “hits” that follow major breakdowns.

Moreover, never ignore a problem when you first become aware of it. For example, if your mechanic says that your disc brakes are below minimum thickness, your pads or shoes are gone, or your hydraulic system is leaking, then make those repairs at once. To delay will only exacerbate the problem and can also lead to a safety issue — without effective brakes, you will have difficulty stopping your car and you may crash.

Lastly, get in the habit of setting aside money to cover repairs as you’ll be more likely to have them done if the money is on hand. You can also use that fund as a down payment on a different vehicle if you choose to cut your losses and move on.

Summer Dreams and Your Cross-Country Adventure

July 9, 2014 by admin 1 Comment

I have never driven cross country, but would seriously consider doing so if I had the time and the right car to take me there and back. From coast-to-coast, your trip would easily add more than 5,000 miles to your car’s odometer and put it through a test it likely hasn’t been through before. If the appeal of the open road is a strong one for you, then consider the following points as you make your plans and head out.

From sea to shining sea.

Assuming that you’re starting your trip at the continent’s edge and continuing to the other side of the country, you will be spending about a week on the road just to make your way across America. If you plan to drive back, add another week of travel.

Likely, you will want to allow for up to a week of looking around, so plan on making it at least a three-week adventure. Piecing an extended amount of time off from work can be a challenge for most people — will your boss allow it? Thankfully, I work for myself and can take my work with me.

Your boss may have a thing or two to say about your extended vacation plans.

Your car, a rental or a friend’s vehicle.

You have several transportation choices for taking a coast-to-coast trip. Your own car is the logical first choice. You might also consider renting a vehicle. Or, if you are planning to head out with a friend, then your buddy’s car may do. There are advantages and disadvantages with all three points.

For instance, your car may not be able to handle the trip. Also, if you rent a vehicle, you will pay for the rental cost and for exceeding mileage limits. It is doubtful that any rental car company would be happy to have an additional 5,000 to 7,500 miles placed on the odometer without charging you handsomely for it.

Take a friend’s vehicle and you may be in the passenger seat more than behind the wheel. This is simply not an option for people that prefer to drive. Of course, you could volunteer to do the bulk of the driving.

Fast or slow or both.

America’s interstate highway system means that there are multiple highways that criss-cross the country and can get you where you are going fast. Speed, however, isn’t everything. If you want to take in all that America offers and enjoy the fabric of our country, then navigating what is left of the Mother Road, Route 66, may be the best plan for you.

If your trip includes secondary and tertiary roads it will take you longer to cross the country. Other factors to consider include how much time you want to devote to driving each day, the length of your stops and the ever changing weather conditions.

Americas interstate highway system is not the only way to see the country.

Eat and sleep your way there.

As you cross the country you will have the opportunity to sample a variety of fare. You will also find that accommodations can vary and your sleeping choices may be few and far between in some areas. This means you may need to consider various options including sleeping in a tent, in the back seat of your car or taking your chances at a motel court that time has forgotten. Much may depend on your budget as well as your personal tastes.

As you map out your route, locate the various places you can stay along the way including campgrounds, motels and bed and breakfast establishments. If you frequent a certain hotel chain, know where these are located too. You may tire of camping night after night and want to give yourself a comfortable break as well as a hot shower.

What to pack for your trip.

You will be gone for several weeks and that means bringing sufficient clothing with you along with plans to stop and clean as you go. Summer shorts and other lightweight clothing may be sufficient for much of your route, but you should keep in mind that as you make your way through higher elevations, temperatures can plunge especially at night.

It wouldn’t be wrong to bring winter gear with you in the event that you encounter a freak snow event as you cross the Rockies. Your gear should include comfortable footwear, boots, hats, gloves and long sleeved shirts and pants. A sweater, jacket and a coat can also come in handy. Besides camping gear you will want to bring a pillow, blankets, a sleeping bag and anything else to keep you warm.

Will your tires endure thousands of miles of tough travel?

Have your car serviced.

With thousands of miles of road ahead of you, the vehicle you drive will be put through a big test. If you own the vehicle you intend to take, there are several things you will want to do before hitting the road.

A trip to your mechanic to have him handle your service interval requirements may be necessary. Also, if you need to have something checked before you leave, then get that done now. That rattle or squeal underneath the hood could be warning you that you have a potential breakdown in your future. Have that problem fixed before you leave.

For a cross country trip you will want to have your oil changed, your air filter replaced, your battery cleaned or replaced, your fluids topped off, the transmission fluid changed, the radiator flushed and your tires rotated. If your tires are showing signs of wear, replace them before heading out. Don’t forget to check the spare tire too.

Inspect your brake and suspension system and verify that the exhaust system is in good working order. Replace your wiper blades, check all lights and bring with you an emergency kit. Duct tape and a first aid kit come in handy too.

It is also a good idea to ensure that your roadside assistance plan is current. Leave an itinerary behind with a family member or a friend and make sure that your cell phone coverage is sufficient. Bring a working backup battery and your charger with you.

Traveling Considerations

If you plan to bring a certified gas can with you as a precaution against running out of gas, fill it only 80 percent full as it will need room to expand as temperatures change. It should be placed securely in the car where it will not tip over and secured by a strap or a cord to prevent movement. If you store it inside of your car, a nearby window should be kept open slightly to allow fumes to escape.

Driving across the country can be taxing on both car and driver alike. Yet, the trip can be an immensely rewarding one, giving you a better appreciation for the land and the people that call America their home.

See Also — Getting There: Driving vs.Flying

5 Car Dangers That Come from Cold Weather

January 29, 2014 by Doug Climenhaga 1 Comment

There’s more to winter than bigger heat bills. In the automotive world, frigid temps may lead to unique problems that don’t show up at other times of the year. Look through these five dangers that come from cold weather and make sure your car is ready to deal with the rest of the winter.

1. Dead battery: It might be an all-too-familiar winter scene: A driver puts the key in the ignition, turns it, and the engine cranks sluggishly or not at all. Maybe the headlights and dashboard lights are dim, too — it could be a dead battery. Confirm that the battery is the problem is by checking the voltage. You can use a voltmeter or a dedicated battery tester, but each requires a different set of steps for checking the battery. If you’re not calling a service for help, consult your owner’s manual and be sure you know how to jumpstart the car. Stock your trunk with an emergency kit in case a dead car battery leaves you stranded in the cold: heavy coat, gloves, blanket, flashlight, snacks and water.

2. Cracked windshield wipers: After being frozen and unfrozen a few times in the winter, your car’s windshield wipers won’t perform as they once did. If you notice that they are skipping across the windshield or leaving streaks in your line of vision, check the wiper blades. If the rubber is warped or cracked, replace the blades. Also, make sure you have enough windshield washer fluid to last your journey. There’s not much more frustrating (not to mention dangerous, for you and other drivers) than running out of washer fluid on a slushy day in a high-traffic area.

3. Radiator problems: The radiator of a car keeps the engine at the proper temperature, whether it’s sweltering hot or bitterly cold outside. Antifreeze, or coolant, absorbs engine heat and dissipates it through the radiator. A half-and-half mixture of antifreeze and water is sufficient for your car to start and run in the cold. If the engine’s cooling system isn’t properly filled, or if the coolant is too diluted, your radiator could freeze, the car won’t start and you could end up with a cracked, leaking radiator. The next time you’re at the mechanic, they can check the level of your antifreeze and may recommend a flush of the system. Old antifreeze can be full of dirt and rust, which can lead to corrosion and leaks, and eventually overheating.

4. Salt-covered car body: While road salt keeps everyone safer in icy conditions, the resultant coating of salt is bad for the body of the car. The salt sits there for days or even weeks, and over the long run, that salt can cause rust. Wash your car when the temperature allows. The good news is that with improved corrosion-resistant coatings on newer cars, it will take salt a long time to eat its way to the metal — metal (not paint) rusts. If you go to a drive-through car wash, pick one that washes the undercarriage of the vehicle, where there are more hidden spots that can rust due to salt corrosion.

5. Tires deflating: Heat causes tire pressure to rise, and cold weather causes it to drop. Do not be surprised if your low-pressure indicator light turns on after a cold snap. If your car is older than model year 2008 and it doesn’t have a tire pressure monitoring system, check the pressure with a tire gauge before driving after the first cold day of the season. The proper PSI (pounds per square inch) for your tires will be on a sticker inside the driver-side door or in the owner’s manual. Do not go by the pressure listed on the tire itself — this is the maximum allowable pressure and is likely not the same as the manufacturer-recommended PSI. Optimum tire pressure allows your car to be fuel efficient, and, most importantly in the winter, to have the best traction and stopping time.

Cold Weather Care

Watch for signs of these potential dangers before you head out for a winter drive, especially before a longer journey. Just because winter is underway doesn’t mean it’s too late to check and address any of these hazards. What other winter car problems do you frequently run into?

See Also — 5 Tips for Driving at Night

So You Think You Want a Hobby Car

April 5, 2012 by Selma Lockaby Leave a Comment

You catch yourself drooling over the old VW Super Beetle pulled up beside you at the fuel pump. Your neck is sore from repeatedly craning it at every Jeep Grand Wagoneer you pass. You spend hours online reading articles like this one about getting a hobby car. The $2,500 you’ve been saving for the project is threatening to turn into a new grill or get absorbed into Jr.’s college fund. It’s time to take the plunge. Here are some clarifying questions and tips to make sure you don’t end up loathing the experience.

1. Are you ready for this?

True story: A friend owned a new Subaru Outback wagon that cost nearly $30,000. The Subaru was parked outside under a tree, yielding his single garage space to a 1967 Volvo 122s that he’d acquired for $2,000. Even he knew that this arrangement didn’t make sense, but if you’re considering purchasing a hobby car, you already know that they aren’t about making sense. They’re about your love for the car.

Volvo 170 — Do you garage your classic and keep your new car outside?

If you love the car, you’ll spend time tinkering with it. You’ll seek out online forums populated by friendly people who also love the car. You’ll drive great, dubious distances in your car to meet up with these forum people, and beam when they compliment the shiny, correct color-code paint you’ve applied to the engine block. You’ll break down on the way home and, using the box of replacement parts and duct tape you keep in the trunk, fix the problem on the fly. If the same thing had happened in your 2008 Honda Accord, you’d have cursed the vehicle up and down, but something about your 1961 Saab 95 makes it all OK.

Can-do, that’s you. If it’s not, you want a restored classic car, not a hobby car. You’ll pay more, but you can expect greater reliability and less hands-on maintenance.

2. Which Car?

Which car you buy depends largely on your skills. If you’re mechanically inclined and look forward to rebuilding the old engine, you can probably get a vehicle that isn’t running at a fraction of the cost of a roadworthy example. If you like to sew, you might enjoy reupholstering the interior of the old AMC Concord that recently was home to a family of raccoons – but you’re going to want to be sure that the engine runs. You need to be honest about your abilities and interests and try to acquire a vehicle with needs in your area of expertise. Otherwise, you’ll end up spending exorbitant sums paying others to do the repairs you’re unable to do yourself. And you’ll start misappropriating junior’s college fund to do so.

The No.1 killer of old cars is rust. If you live or have vacationed in the South, Southwest or Northwest, you’ll likely have seen rust-free old cars in much greater quantities than in the Northeast, mid-Atlantic or Midwest. Rust permeates all unprotected metal parts, eating not just frames, unibodies and body panels, but also springs, axles, radiators and much more. Unless you have a body shop and easy access to rust-free replacement parts, you should seek out and purchase the least rusty example you can find.

This might mean travelling out of your region to find the right car. The good news is that the laws of supply and demand frequently result in a greater quantity of comparatively less expensive vehicles in comparatively better condition in dry regions, leaving you some spare change for travel. Or, if you’re already active and have made friends in the online forums related to your dream car, there might be someone near enough to the car you’d like to see who would check it out for you. Find a winner? Great! Bring it home.

3. Give Yourself a Honeymoon

If your car is advertised as running and driveable, and it’s fairly close to home, go ahead and drive it home. However, unless you’ve personally driven it at highway speeds and perhaps had it inspected at a trusted shop, your best bet is to have it transported home. Maybe you’ve got a buddy with a flatbed? No? If you have AAA, you might be able to have it towed up to 100 miles at no additional cost. If it’s more than a hundred miles away, spend a few bucks and have it shipped by an auto transport company. They’ll often move even non-running vehicles, so that opens the doors for your search.

flat-bed towing — Long distance towing of a classic car
can be accomplished via flat bed.

Basically, you want to bask in the glow of your hobby car before it leaves you stranded for the first time. Remember your duct tape fix on the way home from your car-geek meet-up? Your “new” car’s prior owners already have those stories with your car and you have no idea which bits are still held together by duct tape. It’s best to avoid any long or fast trips before spending some time going over the vehicle yourself, in your own garage. You do have a garage, right?

4. You Need a Garage

Apartment complexes and city streets are the wrong environment for a hobby car. It’s almost impossible to properly and safely maintain a vehicle in a parking lot. Plus, you’ll start to resent your current abode for its lack of a garage. You’ll start to hate the weather for raining on your first Saturday off that you planned to use it to swap out wheel bearings. And you’ll start to hate the car, covered in snow, ice or pollen, unable to be shown off and driven for your inability to keep up with the maintenance in the unpredictable outdoors.

Moving Forward

Still in? Enjoy the rewarding pastime of tinkering with your old car. You’re going to love it.

Photo Credits

Volvo 122s WikiUser5000

Saab 95 Jelson25

1981 AMC Gremlin CZ Marlin

How to Inspect Your Wiper Blades for Winter Wear

December 1, 2010 by admin 3 Comments

A working pair of car wiper blades are a must for any vehicle. When blades are worn, they’ll streak, smear and skip, and won’t adequately clear your windshield. You need to have maximum visibility when driving – worn blades should be replaced immediately.

Winter can present challenges to your wiper blades as no other season can. Ice, snow, sleet, road salt, mud and debris can cause your blades to wear out faster. Under certain conditions, blades or frames can break, rendering your wipers inoperable when you need them most.

Change Frequency

windshield wiper You may have heard recommendations to replace your wipers blades every six or twelve months. Under normal conditions, this recommendation is sufficient. However, if your car is exposed to prolonged and severe winter conditions, then an immediate replacement may need to be warranted.

Here is what you should look for when inspecting your cars wiper blades for seasonal wear:

1. Worn rubber – Cracks, chunks of missing rubber and splits are signs that your wiper blade needs to be replaced.

2. Broken frames – Frame arms and joints can detach at critical connection points.

3. Metal wear – Signs of corrosion on metal claws and joints can lead to wiper arm failure.

4. Lift carefully – Carefully place blades in the erect position and gradually help them make contact with the windshield. Wipers without full contact to the windshield or loose will not get the job done. Reattach or replace as needed.

5. Windshield fluid – Besides checking the blades, arms and related parts, make sure that your windshield washer fluid reservoir is filled. Use an agent designed not to freeze in winter. Make sure that squirt holes are unblocked before heading out.

Rear Wiper Blades Need Service Too

Keep in mind that many sport utility vehicles and crossovers have a rear wiper blade that should be inspected and replaced as needed too. Always keep your windshield clear of ice; try not to use your wiper blades to remove frozen material as that will cause your blades to wear out faster.

Finally, replace your wipers at the beginning of winter and your blades should last for the season. Replace them again before summer and you should always have a clear view of the road. Consider keeping a backup pair in your trunk just in case.

Resources

2CarPros: How a Windshield Wiper System Works

Haynes: Windshield Wiper Replacement

Photo Credit: Hyperlux